Fishing a blade bait is often referred to as “pumping a blade” due to the up-and-down motion used to work the lure. Every blade-bait angler develops his or her method in which they have confidence. I like to impart a rather aggressive upward swept, enough to give the lure a strong vibration. I limit the lift to a foot or two, so it’s easier to control. Once the lift if complete, I allow the bait to fall on a fairly tight line. If the bait free-falls on a slack line, a hook often fouls around the line. Most hits occur on the drop; if you don’t feed the bite (which is often simply a spongy feeling), the fish will typically be there when you start your next upward jig. I pause the bait for a couple seconds between jigs. In most instances you want your lure to be close to the bottom, so every so often let it make contact to be sure you’re in the right spot.
While a spoon is worked in a similar fashion, I tend to give it more of an upward twitch, rather than the snap used to get the blade to vibrate. Also, I give the spoon a much longer pause, as much as 10 seconds. I find fish more willing to hit a paused spoon that blade bait.
Match the size lure you’re using to the depth being fished and wind conditions. Depths in the 10 foot range often call for a quarter to three-eighth ounce lure. From 15 to 20 feet, a three-eighths to half-ounce lure is in order, while a three-quarter ounce bait is needed out to 30 to 35 feet. If it’s windy figure on going to a heavier bait than what you’d normally use.
A 6 to 6 1/2 foot medium-power, fast action spinning rod is ideal for working both blades and spoons. Braided line like PowerPro in 20 pound test lets you know what’s going on down deep. Use a fluorocarbon leader (which is much stiffer than braid) of at least 14-pound test to keep minimize fouling. Always use a snap, otherwise the jigging action will saw through the knot.
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